Introduction to Smangus Giant Tree Trail

There are some places in Taiwan that even folks who live here for years never visit. Smangus Giant Tree Trail is one of those places.

A very remote area, lack of public transportation, and winding, mountainous roads. These are some of the reasons why the eastern corner of Taiwan’s Hsinchu County remains quiet and less visited. But there’s a lot to love here for those that make the effort.

Jianshi Township (尖石鄉) is the largest township in Hsinchu County, covering nearly one-third of its land area. This area is tucked deep in the mountains, where the Toucian River (頭前溪) and Dahan River (大漢溪) carve through steep green valleys. This is also one of the cultural heartlands of the Atayal people.

For visitors, Jianshi is a gateway to Smangus, Cinsbu (another giant cypress tree grove), and other Atayal villages. Less visited than most destinations, this is one of Taiwan’s best.

Essentials for Smangus Giant Tree Trail

DISTANCE: 3.5km round-trip on an out-and-back trail with a little lollipop loop at the end.

TIME: Hiking time should be around 3 hours on the trail. Add in stops for snacks, forest bathing and the Giant Trees, it might end up being 4-5 hours.

TOTAL ASCENT: About 315m, but it is covered over a gradual descent and climb up into the tree grove. Exact same when hiking back.

DIFFICULTY (RATING): We’d rate this about 4/10. A great option for beginner hikers and families with younger children. For more novice or advanced hikers, this trail is quite easy. But they’re not really coming for the challenge; it’s the trees that matter most here.

FOOD AND WATER: Depends on when you start the hike, but snacks should suffice. We drank around 0.5L of water in the fall/winter. We’d suggest about 1L if you’re hiking in the summer. This brings us to the shade and exposure on the trail.

SHADE AND FOREST COVER: The trail almost completely shaded with only the occasional sections that open up. No real need for sunscreen or protective wear.

SIGNAGE AND MOBILE NETWORK: There is little signage along this trail and is mostly in Chinese. Don’t sweat it though as it’s a pretty obvious trail to follow. Surprisingly, the mobile network is ok in most spots, but does drop off near the Giant Tree Grove.

HOW TO GET TO SMANGUS:

By Car: From Taipei, it likely takes over 3 hours with no traffic. It’s a hard place to get to and very remote. You can use this Google Map link, which takes you directly to the parking lot adjacent to the trailhead. Parking here costs about $200ntd/car and we wouldn’t recommend parking anywhere else. It’s a small community and they earn income through this fee.  

By Private or Scheduled Tour: If you’d like to arrange a visit to Smangus and the Giant Tree Trail, we can sort you out. This would be on a private tour, or you can join one of our scheduled group tours.

History & Culture of Jianshi and Smangus

The name Jianshi comes from an Atayal legend about a sharp rock formed where two powerful rivers meet. To locals, this rock symbolizes endurance and strength. When Han settlers arrived, the name was translated directly into Chinese: Jian (sharp) and Shi (stone).

Under Japanese rule (1895–1945), Jianshi was folded into Hsinchu’s local administration, and later restructured under the ROC in 1946. Today, the township is divided between its “Front Mountain” and “Back Mountain” regions, which is noticeable when driving in. This area is remote, rugged, and sparsely populated.

Deeper in the township lies Smangus (司馬庫斯), arguably Taiwan’s most remote indigenous village and home to Giant Tree Trail (巨木群步道). Here, two thousand year-old cypress trees tower above trails. For travelers seeking both cultural depth and natural grandeur, Smangus is a destination unlike any other in Taiwan.

Smangus is a Taiwanese Atayal (泰雅族) indigenous community, often called “Taiwan’s first cooperative village.” In the 1990s, the residents collectively decided to run their tourism services as a cooperative, sharing revenue and responsibilities equally. This spirit of cooperation has shaped the unique experience visitors find here. There’s a sense of hospitality rooted in tradition, sustainability, and respect for the land.The village itself sits at an elevation of around 1,500 meters, often cloaked in mist and clouds.

Trail Details of Smangus’ Giant Tree Trail

This route is a pretty standard one for all those looking to hike the Giant Tree Trail. You may not even need the GPX file, but it’s here for those that want it.

The Smangus Giant Tree Trail is the crown jewel of the area. Here hikers can experience one of the last remaining giant cypress tree groves in the country.

The trailhead starts adjacent to one of the main accommodations and restaurants that overlook the surrounding mountains. The first section of the trail leads guests down, under some of the cabins that belong to the hotel. It requires hikers to cross a paved road after about 300m. We noticed a few people looking lost here. They were heading up/down the road, but you have to cross over and continue on the compact soil trail. 

The trail is relatively flat, easy walking and takes hikers through a beautiful bamboo grove before transitioning into the more common mid-elevation forests of Taiwan cypress, red cypress, and Japanese cedars. This is mostly secondary forests and there are a few beautiful view points along the way. 

The trail also has a few stream crossings, simple waterfalls and spots to sit down next to a little river. These features are great for spots to take a rest, enjoy some snacks and connect a little close with nature – that’s what its all about after all!

The highlight of the trail is at the end, which features the giant cypress trees that all make the effort to get here. Many of these trees are over 2,000 years old, 45m tall, 20m in circumference. The most famous, known as “Yaya” (meaning “giant” in Atayal), is revered locally as sacred. The trail itself is a bit of a lollipop, where the majority of the trail is an out-and-back, with a short loop through the giant cypress trees themselves. 

To protect the roots of some of Taiwan’s best preserved giant cypress trees, the community built a wooden boardwalk that meanders through and around the trees along this last, little loop. This is a little different from other ancient cypress tree groves like those found in Lalashan National Forest, where visitors can get right up next to them. It’s for the best though, as the community is simply trying to manage visitors, particularly during the peak Cherry Blossom season.

It goes without saying that anyone hiking here, or elsewhere in Taiwan should always follow a Leave No Trace philosophy and even go the extra mile by picking up any garbage they find on the trail. That’s why we always pack an extra garbage bag and pack out what others might leave behind.

The atmosphere here is often truly cathedral-like with beautiful towering trees, filtered light, and an almost spiritual stillness. No need to ruin that by leaving trash on the trail. 

Best Time to Visit Smangus

• Spring (March–May): March is still in the peak Cherry Blossom season where the authorities will manage visitor numbers, but April and May are perfect with cooler temperatures and stable weather.
• Summer (June–August): June is the start of the Plum Rain season, but if you’re out on the trail earlier enough you should be fine. Afternoon showers are common between June-August, with July and August also being smack dab in the middle of Typhoon Season
• Autumn (September–November): Crisp air, clear skies, and stable weather. September might be a bit hot and humid still, but October-November is some of the best hiking weather in Taiwan.
• Winter (December–February): December is also great for hiking and for colourful fall foliage. Syakaro Historic Trail is nearby and one of the best places to see Maple Trees change colour. Also one of the busiest. January can be chilly, sometimes frosty mornings in Smangus, but very beautiful when mist hangs in the forest and the Sea of Clouds comes out. February is peak season in Smangus due to the Cherry Blossom season. Plan well in advance and ensure that you have accommodation booked out and can pass the control stations on the road in.

Final Thoughts on Smangus and Giant Tree Trail?

Visiting the Smangus’ Giant Tree Trail is really part of larger experience of visiting Smangus. While it can be done in a day with a private vehicle or on a tour, but we think its best done over two days to make the most of the effort it takes to get here. As always, be respectful of the community and the environment you’re visiting and leave this place better than you found it. Smangus and the Giant Tree Trail are special and while they may get more popular over time, we should make the effort to keep them that way. Spend your money in the community, travel slowly and be respectful.